Biroldo and Sopressata | The Mountains Cook With Everything

A Hungarian-Tuscan breakfast at the butcher paper

The sea gives abundance. The mountains do not. In the mountains, you take what you have, and what you have is what you have killed in October and what you have dried and what you have salted and what you have buried in clay or marble for a winter, and then in February you eat it, all of it, and you waste nothing, because there is nothing to waste with. …