Erbe | The Greens on the Side

How a heap of wet leaves rewrote my idea of a side dish

The wild boar arrived black-red in a shallow bowl, slick with the wine it had cooked in for half a day, and on the side of the plate sat what looked, at first glance, like an accident. A pile of greens. Wet, dark, undressed in any obvious way, a little spinach-like but coarser and more varied, with stems among the leaves. I had ordered the ragù, and tha…