Trattoria da Carlino | It's Just Fish

The worldview behind the best vongole on the Versilia coast

Our former landlord Veronica grew up by the sea. She lives in a palazzo in Pietrasanta. Money is not the issue. We were telling her, over coffee one afternoon, about a sushi place that had opened in town, run by a model from Milan who had become obsessed with Japan and was importing most of her ingredients direct. The fish was excellent. I had lived in …