Magra Delta Roadtrip | A Tagine, a Lighthouse, and a Dead Roman City

The loop we drove on a busy May Saturday when Lerici was full, and have been driving ever since

There are two ways to leave Versilia when you live here: the flat country, the umbrella beaches, and the smell of the marsh that this whole coast was built on top of begins to press you down. The first is north-east, into the mountains, the road that climbs up the inland valleys toward the Lunigiana and the Garfagnana, and we have written about that one…