San Miniato | The Truffle I Couldn't Taste

The white-truffle capital of Italy, the festival economy, and what depth actually costs

The first thing San Miniato gives you, before any truffle, is the climb. We left the car in the lower town, where the station and the leather warehouses sit on the flat by the Arno, and walked up, and the road kept turning back on itself the way roads do when a town has decided to live on a hill and let the valley fend for itself. By the time we reached…