The Fiorentina Steak | Leave it alone

Why everyone who tries to improve it ruins it

Hold a Fiorentina up by the bone and look at the outline against the light. The t-bone down the center, the long strip of meat on one side, the smaller fillet on the other, the slight curve at the top where the spine used to be. It’s the shape of Tuscany. Not a loose resemblance, the actual shape — the Apennines along the spine, the Maremma swelling out…