Lerici | An Old Friend on the Gulf of Poets

The Ligurian town we came to in the summer of 2021, sight unseen, and have been returning to ever since

The kiosk under the castle is a small aluminum thing that should not, by any honest accounting, exist. It is open. It is on the harbor. It sells you mussels and oysters from a refrigerated case, pours you a glass of sparkling wine from a bottle kept in a bucket of ice, and the whole transaction takes as long as it takes to be hungry and costs about thre…