Piccolo Tito | The Other Tito

The takeaway counter on the Viareggio pier

We walk the Lungo Molo del Greco often, Sophia and I, the long stone pier that pushes out into the sea from the back of Viareggio between the working harbor on one side and the open Tyrrhenian on the other. The walk is something close to a kilometer one way, and on a good morning it is the cleanest hour you can spend on this coast. The air is salt-loud,…